4D / 3N
24% OFF
Best Selling Alleppey-Munnar Kerala Weekend Tour
- Hotel
- Meals
- Sightseeing
- Houseboat
- Cab Transfer
₹17,132
₹13,020 /pp
Thirunelli Temple is open from 5:30 AM to 12:30 PM and from 5:30 PM to 8 PM every day, and there is no entry fee. The Thirunelly Sree Mahavishnu Temple stands at about 900 m in the Brahmagiri hills of north Wayanad, 32 km from Mananthavady and a few kilometres short of the Karnataka border. Pilgrims call it the Kashi of the South because this is Kerala’s best-known place for Bali Tharpanam, the rites for departed ancestors performed in the Papanasini stream. This guide covers the official pooja rates, the ritual step by step, the nearest railway stations and where to stay.
| Detail | What you need to know |
|---|---|
| Official name | Thirunelly Sree Mahavishnu Temple |
| Deity | Maha Vishnu, four-armed (conch, discus, mace, lotus), facing east |
| Also called | Thirunelly, Sahyamalaka Kshetra, Dakshina Kashi (Kashi of the South), Dakshina Gaya |
| Address | Thirunelly Temple P.O., Thirunelly, Mananthavady, Wayanad, Kerala 670646 |
| Managed by | Malabar Devaswom Board |
| Darshan timings | 5:30 AM to 12:30 PM and 5:30 PM to 8 PM, all days |
| Bali Tharpanam | Daily, 6 AM to 11 AM at the Papanasini stream |
| Entry fee | None |
| Altitude | About 900 m |
| Nearest town | Mananthavady, 32 km |
| Nearest railway stations | Thalassery, Kannur, Kozhikode (about 110 to 120 km). Mysuru from Karnataka |
| Nearest airport | Kannur International, about 90 km |
| Temple phone | 04935 210201 |
| Time needed | 1.5 to 2 hours for darshan. Half a day with Bali Tharpanam |
| Best time | October to March for weather. Vavu days for rituals, with the heaviest crowds |
Thirunelli Temple in the Brahmagiri hills, Wayanad, Kerala, at sunrise
Best Time
October - March
Select Package Type

Thirunelli Temple opens at 5:30 AM and closes at 12:30 PM, then reopens from 5:30 PM to 8 PM. These are the darshan hours the Malabar Devaswom Board publishes on thirunellytemple.in, and they apply on all seven days. Older pages, including an earlier version of this one, gave 12 noon as the morning closing time. The official figure is 12:30 PM.
| Slot | Time | What happens |
|---|---|---|
| Morning darshan | 5:30 AM to 12:30 PM | Sanctum open, vazhipads and archanas at the counter |
| Bali Tharpanam | 6 AM to 11 AM | Materials issued at the Devaswom counter, rites at Papanasini |
| Temple closed | 12:30 PM to 5:30 PM | Good window for Gundika, lunch or Tholpetty |
| Evening darshan | 5:30 PM to 8 PM | Deeparadhana at dusk. Evening prayer for next-morning Bali |
Two things catch people out. The last Bali materials go out well before 11 AM on crowded days, so a family arriving at 10:30 may find the priests already packing up. And on Vavu days the Devaswom adds counters and stretches the ritual hours from before dawn, which is useful but means the queue starts forming the night before. If your trip depends on a specific ritual, call the office on 04935 210201 the day before you drive up.

Bali Tharpanam at Thirunelli is performed every day between 6 AM and 11 AM on the bank of the Papanasini stream, about half a kilometre from the temple through the forest. You pay at the Devaswom counter, collect the rice balls, sesame and darbha grass, and a priest guides you through the rite while you stand in the water. Most families are done in about 90 minutes, including the walk back.
Why here? The Puranic name of the temple is Sahyamalaka Kshetra, and legend holds that Papanasini carries drops of amrit that Garuda spilled while flying over the hills. A dip here is believed to wash away the sins of a lifetime, and rites for the dead done at Thirunelli are held to carry the same weight as those done at Gaya, which is why the temple is also called Dakshina Gaya. Just downstream is Pinnappara (also spelt Pindappara), the boulder where the pindam is laid. Tradition says Parasurama performed rites for his father, the sage Jamadagni, at this rock. In 1991 the ashes of former Prime Minister Rajiv Gandhi were immersed in Papanasini, and Rahul Gandhi performed rites for his father at the same stream in 2019.
Many families also stop at the small Gundika Shiva cave shrine on the Papanasini path, and a large number visit Thrissilery Shiva Temple on the same trip, since local tradition links the two shrines.
Oraalpindam is the rite performed by one person for their departed. Koottu pindam is done together by several family members for shared ancestors. If you cannot travel, the Devaswom accepts Pithru Pooja and Thila Homam online, and the priests perform them in your family’s name.
| Option | Where and how | Cost | Must you be present? | Best for |
| Bali Tharpanam (Oraalpindam or Koottu pindam) | Papanasini stream, 6 AM to 11 AM, receipt at the Devaswom counter | Small fee paid at the counter | Yes | Annual rites, first-year rites, anyone who wants to do it personally |
| Pithru Pooja | Booked on booking.thirunellytemple.in with the deceased’s name, star (nakshatra) and date | ₹150 | No | Families abroad or unable to travel |
| Thila Homam | Booked online or at the counter | ₹50 | No | Adding a sesame offering for the departed |
| Vavu Bali | Papanasini on Karkidaka, Thulam or Kumbha Vavu, extra counters from before dawn | Counter fee | Yes | Families who follow the Vavu calendar. Expect very long queues |
Wear a plain mundu or dhoti (men) or a cotton saree or salwar (women), since you will be in the water. Bring a full dry change, a small towel, a plastic bag for wet clothes and cash for the counter and kanikka. From June to September the steps down to Papanasini are wet granite with moss on the edges, so walk slowly and keep a hand free. Elderly relatives manage the walk, but they should take it at their own pace with someone beside them.
Thirunelli Temple’s vazhipad rates run from ₹5 for a coconut offering to ₹300 for lighting the deepasthambham, and every item can be booked online at booking.thirunellytemple.in. This is the full card as published by the Malabar Devaswom Board on 28 September 2026.
| Vazhipad | Malayalam | Rate |
|---|---|---|
| Deepasthambham Theliyikkal (lighting the lamp tower) | ദീപസ്തംഭം തെളിയിക്കൽ | ₹300 |
| Koottu Payasam | കൂട്ടുപായസം | ₹200 |
| Pithru Pooja | പിതൃപൂജ | ₹150 |
| Pal Payasam | പാൽപായസം | ₹100 |
| Pana Payasam | പണപായസം | ₹100 |
| Thila Homam | തിലഹോമം | ₹50 |
| Chandanam Charthu | ചന്ദനം ചാർത്ത് | ₹50 |
| Sahasranamarchana | സഹസ്ര നാമാർച്ചന | ₹20 |
| Sooktha Pushpanjali | സൂക്തപുഷ്പാഞ്ജലി | ₹20 |
| Neyyu Vilakku Oppikkal (ghee lamp) | നെയ്യ് വിളക്ക് ഒപ്പിക്കൽ | ₹20 |
| Vana Maala | വന മാല | ₹20 |
| Ashtothara Satha Pushpanjali | അഷ്ടോത്തരശത പുഷ്പാഞ്ജലി | ₹10 |
| Enna Vilakku (oil lamp) | എണ്ണ വിളക്ക് | ₹10 |
| Poo Maala | പൂ മാല | ₹10 |
| Vilakku Maala | വിളക്ക് മാല | ₹10 |
| Sanghabhishekam | ശംഖാഭിഷേകം | ₹10 |
| Nalikera Nivedyam | നാളികേരനിവേദ്യം | ₹5 |
The same portal takes the Ayushkala Pooja, which the temple performs on your birthday every year for long life and health, and E-Kanikka, the online offering.

Thirunelli’s biggest days are the three Vavus, the new-moon days of the Malayalam months of Karkidakam, Thulam and Kumbham. The next one is Thulam Vavu in early November 2026.
| Vavu | Date | Crowd level |
|---|---|---|
| Karkidaka Vavu 2026 | 12 August 2026 (passed) | Highest of the year, tens of thousands |
| Thulam Vavu 2026 | Around 9 November 2026 | Heavy |
| Kumbha Vavu 2027 | Early March 2027, after Maha Shivaratri | Heavy |
| Karkidaka Vavu 2027 | Around 2 August 2027 | Highest of the year |
On Karkidaka Vavu the Devaswom and police run the day like a festival. Private vehicles are usually stopped short of the temple and shuttle buses run from Kattikulam, and KSRTC adds special services from Mananthavady. Arrive the evening before and sleep close by if you can. Rooms at the rest house and in Thirunelli homestays are gone weeks ahead of Karkidaka Vavu.

The Thirunelli Temple dress code is traditional Kerala temple wear. Men wear a mundu or dhoti, or trousers, and are usually expected to remove shirts and vests before entering the inner courtyard (nalambalam). Women wear a saree, salwar kameez or churidar, or a long skirt with a top. Shorts, three-quarters, sleeveless tops and short skirts are not allowed inside.
Leave your footwear outside before the first step up to the temple. You can take photos in the outer areas and on the path to Papanasini, but not inside the sanctum or during rituals, and it is polite to ask before photographing a family at Bali. Keep your phone silent inside the nalambalam, and don’t carry food into the inner temple.
The temple also sits inside reserve forest, which brings its own rules. Carry no plastic down to Papanasini and keep to the paths. Don’t walk the approach road after dark, because wild elephants cross it, especially near Appapara. Tea stalls and small hotels near the car park serve breakfast once the morning rush is over.

According to the legend recorded in the Puranas, Brahma was travelling the world on his swan when he was drawn to the Brahmagiri hills and found an idol of Vishnu beneath an amla (nelli) tree. He installed it with the help of the gods, and Vishnu promised to stay here for ever and that the waters around the temple would wash away sin. The amla tree gave the place its name, Thiru-nelli, and the Puranic name Sahyamalaka Kshetra (amalaka is Sanskrit for the amla fruit). It is counted among the 108 Abhimana Kshethrams of Vishnu.
The second legend explains Papanasini. Garuda was flying over Thirunelli carrying the pot of amrit, and a few drops fell into the stream. The Devaswom itself notes that it holds no ancient records and that much of what is known has come down by word of mouth, so read both stories as tradition rather than history.
The written history is thinner but real. Two sets of Thirunelli copper plates from the reign of the Chera king Bhaskara Ravi Varma, dated 999 CE and 1008 CE, record grants of royal land to pay for the temple’s daily poojas. The Malayalam champu Unniyachi Charitham, usually dated to the 13th century, opens with a lavish description of Thirunelli as a busy temple town. Old coins turned up when the road was cut, which suggests a settlement far larger than today’s village of Nittara around the temple.
Tradition credits a queen of the Chirakkal royal family with building the stone aqueduct when the temple ran short of water. Early patrons named in local accounts include Kunhikutta Varman Veera Kurumpurai and later Sankaran Godavarman. The Devaswom also looks after associated shrines in the area, among them Ammakkavu.

Thirunelli is a classic Kerala temple built in granite, with a tiled roof over the sanctum and a courtyard around it. The black-stone idol of Maha Vishnu faces east, holding the conch, discus, mace and lotus. Several features are unusual enough to look for:
The nearest railway stations to Thirunelli Temple are Thalassery (TLY, about 110 km), Kannur (CAN, about 116 km) and Kozhikode (CLT, about 120 km). Kozhikode has the most long-distance trains, so it is usually the easiest to book. From Karnataka, Mysuru Junction (MYS, about 120 km) is the practical railhead. There is no station in Wayanad district, so every rail route ends with a 3 to 3.5 hour drive.
All roads meet at Kattikulam, a junction on the Mananthavady to Mysuru road. Turn off there and the last 17 km run through reserve forest past Appapara, the Thirunelli police station and the forest bungalow before the temple. The Devaswom notes that wild elephants are often seen among the bamboo on this stretch, so drive it in daylight.
| From | Distance | Drive time | Route |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mananthavady | 32 km | 50 minutes | Via Kattikulam and Appapara |
| Kattikulam | 17 km | 30 minutes | Forest road via Appapara |
| Kalpetta | About 64 km | 1 hr 45 min | Via Mananthavady |
| Sulthan Bathery | About 70 km | 2 hours | Via Panamaram and Mananthavady |
| Kannur International Airport | About 90 km | 2 hr 30 min | Mattannur, Nedumpoil ghat, Mananthavady |
| Thalassery | About 110 km | 3 hours | Kuthuparamba, Nedumpoil ghat, Mananthavady |
| Kannur | About 116 km | 3 hr 15 min | Via Kuthuparamba and Nedumpoil |
| Kozhikode | About 120 km | 3 hr 30 min | Kuttiady ghat and Mananthavady (the Thamarassery ghat via Kalpetta is longer) |
| Mysuru | About 120 km | 3 hours | HD Kote, Bavali, Kattikulam |
| Calicut Airport | About 160 km | 4 hr 30 min | Via Kozhikode and Kalpetta |
| Coorg (Madikeri) | About 110 km | 3 hours | Gonikoppal, Kutta, Kattikulam |
| Bengaluru | About 270 km | 6 hours | Mysuru, HD Kote, Bavali, Kattikulam |
Kannur International Airport (CNN) at Mattannur is the closest, about 90 km away, with daily flights from Bengaluru, Chennai, Mumbai, Delhi and the Gulf. Calicut International Airport (CCJ) at Karipur is about 160 km away and has more flights. Bengaluru’s Kempegowda airport (BLR) is about 280 km away, a full day’s drive through Mysuru.
Get down at Thalassery or Kannur if you are coming along the west coast from Mangaluru or Mumbai, and at Kozhikode if you are coming from Kochi, Chennai or Thiruvananthapuram. From all three, hire a taxi or take a KSRTC bus to Mananthavady and change there. From Bengaluru, take a train to Mysuru and drive in via HD Kote and Bavali.
KSRTC runs frequent buses from Mananthavady town to Thirunelli through the day, and a few direct services come from Kozhikode and Kannur. Mananthavady itself is well connected by KSRTC and Karnataka RTC buses to Kalpetta, Kozhikode, Kannur, Mysuru and Bengaluru.
The Mysuru road enters Kerala at Bavali, 8 km from Kattikulam, after passing through the Nagarhole forest. That forest stretch is closed to traffic from 6 PM to 6 AM, so time your drive to clear the Bavali checkpost before 6 PM. The Coorg road through Kutta stays open at night, but it runs through the Tholpetty forest where elephants cross, so drive it in daylight too. Coming from Coorg, the Gonikoppal, Kutta and Tholpetty road joins the same junction at Kattikulam.
The closest place to stay is the Devaswom’s own Panchatheertham Rest House, a short walk from the temple, which suits anyone doing Bali Tharpanam at 6 AM. The official tariff:
| Room | Rate |
|---|---|
| Double room | ₹400 per day |
| A/C double room | ₹600 per day |
| Reservation charge | ₹10 per room |
| Extra person (beyond 2) | ₹30 per person |
| Maximum per room | 4 people, including extras |
| Check-out | 1 PM |
Book by email at accomodation@thirunellitemple.in or call the Rest House on 04935 210055 or 8547244055. The Devaswom office is on 04935 210201 or 8547336201. Rooms are basic, and they fill up completely around the Vavus.
A step up in comfort is KTDC’s Tamarind Easy Hotel, the state tourism hotel about 800 m from the temple, with A/C and non-A/C rooms and dormitories. Rooms run from around ₹1,600 plus GST a night outside the late-December peak. Book on 04935 210475, tamarindthirunelly@ktdc.com or ktdc.com.
For more comfort, Thirunelli village and the road to Tholpetty have family-run homestays, and Kattikulam, 17 km away, has several mid-range resorts. Mananthavady, 32 km away, has the widest choice of hotels and is the usual base if you are covering the rest of north Wayanad. Our list of resorts in Wayanad covers the bigger properties.
Most visitors come for darshan and Bali, but staying the night opens up the hills around the temple.

The best places to visit near Thirunelli Temple are Thrissilery Shiva Temple, Tholpetty Wildlife Sanctuary, the Brahmagiri hills and Pakshipathalam, Kuruva Island, Irupu Falls across the border in Coorg, Nagarhole National Park and Mananthavady town. All of them sit on the Kattikulam side of Wayanad, so they combine easily with a Thirunelli visit. For the whole district, see our guide to places to visit in Wayanad.
| Place | Distance from Thirunelli | Best for | Tip |
|---|---|---|---|
| Thrissilery Shiva Temple | About 15 to 20 km | Pilgrims completing the Thirunelli visit | Morning, before 11 AM |
| Tholpetty Wildlife Sanctuary | Within about 20 km | Jeep safari, elephants, gaur | Early morning slot |
| Brahmagiri and Pakshipathalam | Starts at Thirunelli | Full-day trek | Needs Forest Department permit |
| Irupu Falls (Karnataka) | Across the border via Kutta | Waterfall walk, Lakshmana Tirtha shrine | Best after the monsoon |
| Nagarhole National Park | About 35 km | Safari on the Karnataka side | Book the Karnataka forest safari |
| Mananthavady and Pazhassi Raja tomb | 32 km | History, town base | Combine with your hotel stay |
| Kuruva Island | About 45 km | Bamboo rafting, river islets | Closed in the monsoon |
A calm Shiva temple in Thrissilery village, about 15 to 20 km from Thirunelli, known for its Jaladurga shrine set in a pond. Many families who perform Bali at Thirunelli drive here the same morning, following the local custom that ties the two temples together. Read our full guide to Thrissilery Temple.
The northern block of Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary, within about 20 km, on the Kattikulam to Kutta road. Forest Department jeeps run morning and afternoon safaris, and herds of elephant, gaur and spotted deer are regular sights. Tholpetty can close in the hot, dry weeks of summer for fire protection, so check before you go. More in our Tholpetty Wildlife Sanctuary guide.
The ridge that rises straight behind the temple and runs along the Kerala and Karnataka border. Pakshipathalam, named for the birds that roost in its caves, is the classic trek from Thirunelli. It is a steep full day through shola forest and grassland with a forest guide. See our Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary guide for the Karnataka side.
A two-stage waterfall on the Lakshmana Tirtha river on the Coorg side of Brahmagiri, reached by road via Kutta. A 1 km forest walk from the car park reaches the base, and a small Rameshwara temple stands at the entrance.
Karnataka’s tiger reserve begins just across the border beyond Kutta and Bavali. Safaris run from the Karnataka Forest Department’s reception points. Read more about Nagarhole National Park.
The nearest town, 32 km away, has banks, pharmacies, fuel and the tomb of Kerala Varma Pazhassi Raja, who fought the British from these hills. See our list of places to visit in Mananthavady and the Pazhassi Raja tomb.
A cluster of forested river islets on the Kabini, about 45 km away via Kattikulam, entered from the Pakkam or Palvelicham side and reached by bamboo raft or fibre boat. Daily visitor numbers are capped (about 488 a day in 2025, split between the two entry points), and the islands close through the monsoon, usually reopening around September. Our Kuruva Island guide has the ticket details.
The best time to visit Thirunelli Temple is October to March, when the days are dry, mornings are cool (around 15 to 18°C) and the forest road is easy to drive. For rituals, the Vavu days matter more than the weather, and early morning is the best time of day in every season.
| Months | Weather | Crowd | Good to know |
|---|---|---|---|
| October to February | Dry, cool mornings, 15 to 27°C | Moderate. Heavy on Thulam Vavu | Best for combining darshan, Tholpetty and treks |
| March to May | Warm, 20 to 32°C | School-holiday rush in April and May | Papanasini at its lowest. Tholpetty may shut for fire season |
| June to September | Heavy monsoon rain | Quiet, except Karkidaka Vavu | Leeches on forest paths. Papanasini runs fast and waist-deep. Slippery steps |
| Vavu days | Any | Extreme | Arrive the evening before. Police traffic controls and special KSRTC buses are usually announced each year |
Wayanad’s month-by-month weather is covered in our best time to visit Wayanad guide.
This plan assumes you sleep at the Panchatheertham Rest House, in Thirunelli village or in Kattikulam the night before.
If you would rather have the hotels, transfers and the Thirunelli detour arranged for you, our Wayanad tour packages can be customised around a morning at the temple.
Thirunelli rewards an early start. Be at the temple by 5:30 AM, finish Bali before the 11 AM cutoff, and the rest of the day is free for Thrissilery, Tholpetty or the drive back through the forest in daylight. Most visitors fold the temple into a longer Wayanad trip, and our Wayanad travel guide and the wider list of temples in Wayanad help you plan the rest. When you are ready to put the hotels and transfers together, browse our Kerala tour packages and ask for a morning at Thirunelli to be added.
Sources: darshan timings, vazhipad rates, rest-house tariff, address and phone numbers from the Malabar Devaswom Board’s thirunellytemple.in and booking.thirunellytemple.in, checked on 28 September 2026. Background from Kerala Tourism and Wikipedia.
Quick answers on timings, Bali Tharpanam, pooja booking, dress code, Vavu dates and how to reach
Thirunelli Temple is open from 5:30 AM to 12:30 PM and from 5:30 PM to 8 PM every day, as published by the Malabar Devaswom Board. Bali Tharpanam at the Papanasini stream runs from 6 AM to 11 AM. The temple is closed between 12:30 PM and 5:30 PM. On Vavu days the ritual hours start earlier and extra counters open, so call 04935 210201 if your visit falls on one.
Bali Tharpanam is performed daily between 6 AM and 11 AM at Papanasini. You pay a small fee at the Devaswom counter, in the name of the person performing the rite, and collect the Bali materials there. If you cannot travel, the Devaswom performs Pithru Pooja for ₹150 and Thila Homam for ₹50, both bookable on booking.thirunellytemple.in.
Yes. All 17 vazhipads, from Nalikera Nivedyam at ₹5 to Deepasthambham Theliyikkal at ₹300, can be booked on booking.thirunellytemple.in, the Malabar Devaswom Board's official portal. For Pithru Pooja you enter the deceased's name, birth star, the number of years and the date. The same portal handles the yearly Ayushkala Pooja on your birthday and E-Kanikka offerings.
Men wear a mundu, dhoti or trousers and are usually expected to remove shirts and vests before entering the inner courtyard. Women wear a saree, salwar kameez, churidar or a long skirt. Shorts, sleeveless tops and short skirts are not allowed inside. Footwear stays outside. For Bali, wear plain cotton you can get wet and carry a full dry change.
Thalassery (about 110 km), Kannur (about 116 km) and Kozhikode (about 120 km) are the nearest railway stations. Kozhikode has the most trains from Kochi, Chennai and Thiruvananthapuram, while Thalassery and Kannur suit travellers on the Mangaluru line. From Karnataka, Mysuru Junction (about 120 km) is the practical railhead. From any station it is a 3 to 3.5 hour drive via Mananthavady.
Thirunelli is about 270 km from Bengaluru, a drive of around six hours, and about 120 km from Mysuru, around three hours. Both routes run via HD Kote and the Bavali border checkpost to Kattikulam, then 17 km of forest road to the temple. The Nagarhole forest stretch on this road is closed to traffic from 6 PM to 6 AM, so plan to clear the Bavali checkpost before 6 PM.
Yes. The Devaswom's Panchatheertham Rest House beside the temple charges ₹400 a day for a double room and ₹600 for an A/C double, plus a ₹10 reservation charge. An extra person costs ₹30, up to four per room, and check-out is 1 PM. Book on 04935 210055, 8547244055 or accomodation@thirunellitemple.in. Homestays in Thirunelli and resorts at Kattikulam are the next closest.
Thirunelli has three Vavu Bali days a year, on the new moon of the Malayalam months of Karkidakam (July or August), Thulam (October or November) and Kumbham (February or March). The coming dates are Thulam Vavu around 9 November 2026, Kumbha Vavu in early March 2027 and Karkidaka Vavu around 2 August 2027. Karkidaka Vavu draws the biggest crowds, so arrive the evening before.
Thirunelli is called the Kashi of the South, or Dakshina Kashi, because rites for the dead performed at its Papanasini stream are believed to carry the same merit as those done on the Ganga at Kashi. It is also called Dakshina Gaya for the same reason. Legend says Papanasini holds drops of amrit spilled by Garuda, and that a dip washes away the sins of a lifetime.
Nobody knows exactly when the temple was founded, and the Devaswom itself says it holds no ancient records. The oldest firm evidence is two sets of copper plates from the reign of the Chera king Bhaskara Ravi Varma, dated 999 CE and 1008 CE, which record land grants to the temple. The 13th-century Malayalam work Unniyachi Charitham already describes it as a thriving temple town.
Photography is allowed in the outer areas of the temple and on the path to Papanasini, but not inside the sanctum or during rituals. Many families performing Bali Tharpanam prefer not to be photographed, so ask first. Don't fly a drone without permission, since the temple sits inside reserve forest.
Plan 1.5 to 2 hours for darshan, the walk to Panchatheertham and a look at the aqueduct. If you are performing Bali Tharpanam, allow half a day, including the counter queue, the 500 m walk to Papanasini and pradakshina afterwards. On Vavu days, the whole morning can go in queues.