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Meghalaya Tourism: 2026 Travel Guide

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About Meghalaya Tourism

Meghalaya tourism runs on three things you will not find together anywhere else in India: living root bridges grown by Khasi villagers, waterfalls fed by some of the heaviest rain on Earth around Sohra and Mawsynram, and the Umngot River at Dawki, so clear in winter that boats seem to float on air. The state sits just south of Assam, and almost every trip starts in Guwahati, about 100 km and three hours by road from Shillong.

Plan five days for Shillong, Sohra (Cherrapunji), Dawki and Mawlynnong, or seven to add Laitlum, Mawsynram and the Jaintia Hills. October to April is the dry, clear season. Indian travellers need no Inner Line Permit, but a few rules changed in 2025 and most older guides miss them. This page covers those, a month-by-month weather table, the distances from Shillong to 15 places, and day-by-day plans.

Meghalaya means "abode of clouds" in Sanskrit, and you will see why by mid-afternoon on most monsoon days. The British called Shillong the Scotland of the East for its pine ridges and rolling hills. Three hill communities, the Khasi, Jaintia (Pnar) and Garo, shape the state, and all three are matrilineal: family names and property pass through the mother's line.

Meghalaya at a glance (2026)

Meghalaya at a glance Details
Gateway Guwahati, Assam: Lokpriya Gopinath Bordoloi airport and Guwahati railway station
Guwahati to Shillong About 100 km by road: 96 km from Guwahati station, 117 km from the airport. 2.5 to 3.5 hours
Shillong to Sohra (Cherrapunji) 52 km, about 1.5 hours
Shillong to Dawki 80 km, 2 to 2.5 hours
Ideal trip length 5 days for Shillong, Sohra, Dawki and Mawlynnong. 7 days to add Laitlum, Mawsynram or the Jaintia Hills
Best months October to April for clear views and treks. June to September for waterfalls at full force
Permit for Indians No Inner Line Permit. Hotels and homestays register every guest at check-in, so carry photo ID
Altitude Shillong is about 1,500 m. No altitude sickness risk
Language English (official), Khasi, Pnar, Garo. Hindi is understood in towns
Cash and network Carry cash for Nongriat, Mawlynnong and the Dawki boats. UPI and mobile data drop out beyond Shillong and Sohra
Emergency 112

Do you need a permit? Entry rules for 2026

No. Indian tourists do not need an Inner Line Permit (ILP) to visit Meghalaya. That sets it apart from Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland, Mizoram and Manipur, where Indians do need one (if your route continues, see Arunachal Pradesh trips and permits). Foreign nationals need no Protected or Restricted Area Permit for Meghalaya either. They show a passport and valid visa at check-in, and the hotel files the standard Form C.

For Meghalaya tourism in 2026, four rules matter more than the permit question, and three of them date from mid-2025:

Rule Applies to Since Status (Nov 2026)
Every hotel, homestay and resort registers all guests at check-in All visitors June 2025 state directive In force. Carry a government photo ID for every adult
A registered local guide is compulsory for treks and outdoor activities East Khasi Hills district, which includes Sohra and the Nongriat root bridges June 2025 district order In force. Hire one at Tyrna village or through your homestay
Renting a private car or scooter to drive yourself is illegal unless the operator is registered with the Transport Department Tourists renting vehicles August 2025 rental policy In force. Fines and seizure for unregistered rentals. Hire a Meghalaya-registered cab with a driver
Mandatory visitor registration at entry (a "virtual ILP") All non-residents Proposed July 2026 Not in force. Pending with the Union Home Ministry. Check meghalayatourism.in before you travel

Two smaller points catch people out. Shillong Peak sits inside an Indian Air Force station, so Indian visitors must show an original photo ID at the gate and foreign nationals are usually turned away. At Dawki the Umngot River is the Bangladesh border: stay on the Indian side and do not cross the white pillars on the riverbank for a photo.

Best time to visit Meghalaya, month by month

The best time to visit Meghalaya is October to April, when trails are dry, the valley views from Laitlum and Nohkalikai are clear and the Umngot at Dawki runs at its most transparent, roughly November to March. That is also peak season, so book December stays early. Pick June to September only if big waterfalls matter more than views.

October to February (winter). Shillong averages about 6 to 15°C in January. Days are bright, nights are cold, and this is peak season for root-bridge treks and Dawki boating. Book stays early for late December.

March to May (spring and pre-monsoon). Warmer days, up to the mid-20s in Shillong, and far fewer crowds in March. Showers start in April and build through May. Shad Suk Mynsiem, the Khasi spring dance, is held in Shillong in April.

June to September (monsoon). Sohra and Mawsynram each average more than 11,000 mm of rain a year, which puts them among the wettest inhabited places on Earth. Nohkalikai and the Seven Sisters Falls are at full roar, the hills are emerald, and prices fall. You also get fog that hides the views for days, leeches on forest trails, slippery steps at Nongriat, landslides on the Sohra and Dawki roads, and boating at Dawki suspended whenever the river runs brown.

Month Shillong °C (min to max) Rain Dawki water and root-bridge trek Verdict
January 6 to 15 Very low Clear. Trek: yes Peak. Cold nights, clearest skies
February 8 to 18 Low Clear. Trek: yes Peak
March 11 to 21 Low Clear. Trek: yes Excellent, fewer crowds
April 14 to 23 Showers begin Clear to hazy. Trek: yes Good. Shad Suk Mynsiem in Shillong
May 16 to 24 Rising Hazy. Trek: go early in the day Pre-monsoon, humid afternoons
June 17 to 24 Very high Muddy, boating may stop. Trek: risky Waterfall season only
July 18 to 24 Very high Muddy, boating may stop. Trek: risky Waterfalls. Behdienkhlam in Jowai
August 18 to 24 Very high Muddy. Trek: risky Waterfalls, lowest prices
September 17 to 24 High Muddy, starting to clear. Trek: with care Late monsoon, green hills
October 14 to 22 Falling Clearing. Trek: yes Excellent. Falls still full, skies clearing
November 10 to 19 Low Clear. Trek: yes Peak. Wangala, Shillong Cherry Blossom Festival in years it is held
December 7 to 16 Very low Clear. Trek: yes Peak. Christmas lights in Shillong

Travelling in a specific month? Our planners have ready routes for Meghalaya in October and Meghalaya in December, and two TravelTriangle travellers wrote up what it is really like in Meghalaya in May and Cherrapunjee in July.

How to reach Meghalaya

Fly or take a train to Guwahati, then drive about 100 km to Shillong. Guwahati is the region's main air and rail hub, with direct flights from Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, Kolkata and Chennai, and the drive up takes about three hours, not the five many older guides quote.

Mode Route Distance and time Good to know
Air (most trips) Fly to Guwahati (LGBI), then road to Shillong 117 km, 3 to 3.5 hours The easiest option from any metro. Pre-book the cab, as the airport is on the far west side of the city
Air Shillong Airport at Umroi 30 km north of Police Bazar, about 45 minutes Limited regional flights only. Check the current schedule before you plan around it
Rail Train to Guwahati station, then road 96 km, 2.5 to 3 hours Meghalaya's only railway station is Mendipathar in North Garo Hills, opened in 2014. It is no use for Shillong, Sohra or Dawki
Road MTC bus, shared Sumo or private cab from Guwahati (Paltan Bazar) About 100 km The road climbs past Umiam Lake on the final stretch into Shillong

Coming from Kolkata? It is the shortest flight of any metro, and there is a dedicated set of Meghalaya trips from Kolkata that build in the Guwahati transfer.

Getting around: shared Sumo, MTC bus or hired cab

Most visitors hire a cab with a driver for the whole trip, and since the 2025 rental rules that is also the safest legal choice. Shared Sumos (jeeps) and buses connect the towns cheaply but leave early, fill up slowly and rarely stop at viewpoints or waterfalls.

Option Typical fare (approx, 2026) Best for Catch
MTC bus, Guwahati to Shillong From about Rs 200 a seat Lowest cost Slower, fixed departures, luggage space is tight
Shared Sumo / taxi Rs 70 for short hops in Shillong to Rs 500 a seat for Guwahati to Shillong Solo travellers, town to town Departs when full, usually before 9 am for longer routes
Private cab with driver Rs 2,500 to Rs 3,500 one way Guwahati to Shillong. Day hire priced by route Families, sightseeing days, Dawki and Sohra loops Ask whether tolls, parking and the driver's stay are included
Local taxi in Shillong Short trips inside the city Police Bazar to Laitumkhrah, Ward's Lake Afternoon traffic in Police Bazar is slow

Do not count on app cabs. Uber works only patchily inside Shillong and not at all on the Sohra and Dawki routes, and local taxi unions oppose it. Hired drivers know the landslide spots and the roadside dhabas, which matters on the Sohra and Dawki roads after rain.

Places to visit in Meghalaya by region

Meghalaya tourism splits neatly into three hill regions plus Ri-Bhoi on the Guwahati road. First-timers stay in the East Khasi Hills, which hold Shillong, Sohra and the root bridges. Jaintia Hills add Dawki's river villages and the monoliths, and the Garo Hills in the west are a separate, longer trip. The table gives road distance from Police Bazar in Shillong. For the full list with photos, timings and fees, read our guide to 45 places to visit in Meghalaya.

Place Region Km from Shillong Best for Read more
Umiam Lake Ri-Bhoi 16 Sunset, kayaking, the first stop from Guwahati Umiam Lake
Shillong Peak, Ward's Lake, Elephant Falls East Khasi 0 to 12 City half-day, views over Shillong Places to visit in Shillong
Laitlum Canyons East Khasi 22 Sunrise over deep valleys, short hikes
Mawphlang Sacred Forest East Khasi 25 Guided walk in a clan-protected grove
Sohra (Cherrapunji) East Khasi 52 Waterfalls, caves, homestays Cherrapunji travel guide
Nohkalikai and Seven Sisters Falls East Khasi About 55 Waterfalls, best July to October Cherrapunji waterfalls, Seven Sisters Falls
Mawsmai Cave East Khasi About 55 Easy, lit 150 m limestone cave Mawsmai Cave, caves in Cherrapunji
Nongriat (Double Decker Root Bridge) East Khasi About 65 to Tyrna, then 3,000+ steps down The signature trek, Rainbow Falls Living root bridges of Meghalaya
Mawsynram East Khasi 59 The wettest place on Earth, Mawjymbuin cave
Mawlynnong East Khasi 71 "Asia's cleanest village", Riwai root bridge Mawlynnong
Dawki and Shnongpdeng West Jaintia 80 Boating on the Umngot, riverside camping, Bangladesh border view Umngot River at Dawki, camping at Shnongpdeng
Jowai and Nartiang monoliths West Jaintia 58 Stone monoliths, Behdienkhlam festival
Krang Suri Falls West Jaintia 83 Blue pool below the falls, swimming in the dry season
Nokrek National Park West Garo About 300 (via Tura) Hoolock gibbons, wild citrus forest National parks in Meghalaya
Siju Cave and Balpakram South Garo 350+ Caves and canyon, for a dedicated Garo trip

Three more things set Meghalaya apart. Kongthong, near Sohra, is the "whistling village", where every child gets a personal tune as well as a name. Krem Liat Prah in the Jaintia Hills is among the longest natural caves in India. And the root bridges are still growing: Khasi villagers keep training rubber-fig roots across streams, and some bridges are centuries old.

Where to stay: Shillong, Sohra, Dawki or Nongriat

Do not try to see everything from a Shillong hotel. Sohra and Dawki are each a 2 to 2.5 hour drive the other way, and doing both as day trips means two very long days. Split the stay.

Base Best for Nights Stay type Read more
Shillong (Police Bazar, Laitumkhrah) Arrival night, cafés, shopping, Umiam and Laitlum 2 Hotels from budget to 5-star, boutique stays Homestays in Shillong, Shillong city guide
Sohra (Cherrapunji) Waterfalls, caves, an early start for the Nongriat trek 1 to 2 Plateau resorts and family homestays Homestays in Cherrapunji, places to visit in Cherrapunji
Nongriat village Breaking the root-bridge trek into two easier days 1 Basic village homestays, cash only Living root bridges
Shnongpdeng or Dawki Clear-water mornings on the Umngot, kayaking, camping 1 Riverside tents and simple guesthouses Dawki riverside camping
Mawlynnong A quiet village night before Dawki 1 Bamboo homestays Things to do in Mawlynnong
Tura Garo Hills, Nokrek, Wangala in November 2 Town hotels

Couples tend to pick the Sohra plateau resorts for the valley views (our Meghalaya honeymoon planners use them most), and for a splurge there is a separate list of resorts in Meghalaya. Book Shillong and Sohra stays early for Christmas and the Durga Puja weeks, when Kolkata and Guwahati families fill the hills.

Meghalaya itinerary: 3, 5 and 7 days

The best Meghalaya itinerary for a first trip is five days with two bases, Shillong and Sohra, and one Dawki and Mawlynnong day. Three days covers Shillong and Sohra only. Seven lets you add the viewpoints and the Jaintia Hills without rushing. Every plan starts and ends in Guwahati.

Day 3 days (Shillong and Sohra) 5 days (the classic loop) 7 days (unhurried)
1 Guwahati to Shillong via Umiam Lake. Evening in Police Bazar Guwahati to Shillong via Umiam Lake. Ward's Lake, Police Bazar Guwahati to Shillong via Umiam Lake
2 Shillong to Sohra: Mawkdok viewpoint, Seven Sisters Falls, Mawsmai Cave, Nohkalikai Mawlynnong and the Riwai root bridge, then boating at Dawki. Back to Shillong Shillong Peak, Elephant Falls, Laitlum Canyons at sunset
3 Sohra to Guwahati via Elephant Falls and Shillong Peak Shillong to Sohra: Mawkdok, Seven Sisters Falls, Mawsmai Cave, Nohkalikai. Night in Sohra Mawlynnong, then night by the river at Shnongpdeng
4 Nongriat trek to the Double Decker Root Bridge (start 7 am from Tyrna). Night in Sohra or Nongriat Dawki boats in the morning, Krang Suri Falls, on to Shillong
5 Sohra to Guwahati, stopping at Shillong Peak and Elephant Falls Shillong to Sohra via Mawphlang Sacred Forest. Night in Sohra
6 Nongriat trek. Night in Sohra
7 Early start: Mawsynram and Mawjymbuin cave (about 2 to 2.5 hours from Sohra by road, as there is no direct road across the gorge), then 5 to 6 hours to Guwahati. Book an evening flight or train, or stay a night in Shillong

Add a day at the end if your flight leaves Guwahati before noon. Want to pair the hills with rhinos? A North East trip combining Meghalaya and Assam usually adds two nights in Kaziranga after Shillong (see North East trips and our Kaziranga National Park guide). For an honest family view of a six-day loop, read a TT family's 6-day Meghalaya trip.

Things to do in Meghalaya

Most of what to do in Meghalaya is outdoors and on foot. Pick two or three of these rather than all of them, and save the long ones for dry months. Our list of things to do in Meghalaya goes into each.

Activity Where Season Note
Root-bridge trek Nongriat (Double Decker), Riwai near Mawlynnong October to April Registered guide compulsory in East Khasi Hills. Riwai is a 10-minute walk, Nongriat a half-day
Boating on clear water Umngot River at Dawki and Shnongpdeng November to April Boat rides stop when the river runs muddy
Kayaking Umiam Lake, Shnongpdeng October to May Life jackets provided. Calmest in the morning
Caving Mawsmai (easy, lit), Arwah, Krem Liat Prah (expedition grade) October to April Mawsmai suits kids. Deeper caves need an outfitter
Short hikes Laitlum, David Scott Trail, Shillong's ridge trails October to April See treks around Shillong
Ziplining Mawkdok valley on the Sohra road Dry days Short ride across the Dympep valley
Camping Shnongpdeng riverbank November to April Tents and meals arranged locally
Waterfall-watching Nohkalikai, Seven Sisters, Wei Sawdong, Krang Suri July to October for volume, November for clear views Wei Sawdong's steps are steep and slippery

Shopping is the indoor alternative. Bara Bazar and Police Bazar in Shillong sell bamboo and cane crafts, handwoven Ryndia shawls, Lakadong turmeric, black sesame and local fruit wines. The Mawlynnong market has small woven baskets. More on where to go in our guide to shopping in Shillong.

Daily budget for a Meghalaya trip

Meghalaya is moderately priced by Indian hill-state standards. A budget traveller using shared transport and homestays spends far less than a family with a private cab, and the cab is usually the single biggest cost. Rough per-person spend per day, twin sharing, excluding travel to Guwahati:

Style Stay Getting around Food Approx per person per day
Budget Guesthouses and homestays from about Rs 1,000 a night Shared Sumos and buses Local dhabas, jadoh and tea stalls Rs 1,500 to Rs 2,500
Mid-range 3-star hotels in Shillong, Sohra resorts Private cab shared by 2 to 4 Cafés and restaurants Rs 3,500 to Rs 6,000
Comfort Boutique and 4 to 5-star stays Private cab, one per couple Hotel dining Rs 7,000 and up

Set aside cash for small fees: village entry and parking, the Dawki boat, the Nongriat guide and homestay. If you would rather have stays, cab and sightseeing bundled at one price, see the Meghalaya trip cost by duration on our packages page.

Festivals, culture and food

Festivals are the most rewarding side of Meghalaya tourism to time a trip around. They follow the farming year, and most are held by a specific community in a specific place, so dates shift each year. The table shows the usual month.

Festival Usual month Where What happens
Shad Suk Mynsiem April Weiking ground, Shillong Khasi spring thanksgiving dance in traditional dress
Behdienkhlam July Jowai, West Jaintia Hills Pnar festival to drive away disease, with towering decorated poles
Nongkrem Dance October or November Smit, near Shillong Five-day Khasi harvest festival
Wangala November Asanang, near Tura, Garo Hills The "100 drums" Garo harvest festival
Shillong Cherry Blossom Festival November (not held every year) Shillong Music and food under the November blossom
Christmas December Across Shillong Lit churches, carol services and street markets

Shillong is also the music capital of the North East, and it has hosted big indie events like the NH7 Weekender Shillong. Traditional dress for women is the jainsem, with the dhara worn on festive occasions, and English is the language of signboards and menus.

Food to try. Meghalaya's food is Khasi, Jaintia and Garo, built around rice, pork, fish and fermented flavours. Jadoh is rice cooked with pork and spices, the default local breakfast and lunch. Tungrymbai is a Khasi dish of fermented soybean with pork. Dohneiiong is pork in a black sesame gravy. Pukhlein is a sweet fried rice cake served with tea. In the Garo Hills, try minil songa, sticky rice steamed in bamboo. Vegetarians eat well in Shillong, where North and South Indian restaurants are common. Start with our list of Meghalayan dishes, then work through where to eat in Police Bazar.

Is Meghalaya safe? Monsoon, network and responsible travel

Yes. Meghalaya is one of the calmer states in India for tourists, and families, couples and solo travellers move around Shillong, Sohra and Dawki all year. The real risks are natural and practical, and they are easy to plan around.

• Monsoon roads. Landslides can close the Sohra and Dawki roads for hours between June and September. Leave early, keep an hour of slack in each day and avoid driving after dark.

• Steps and trails. The Nongriat path is 3,000+ steps down and the same back up, with two steel rope bridges. Wear shoes with grip, carry water and use the compulsory local guide. Leeches appear on forest trails in the wet months; salt or a leech sock helps.

• On the water. Wear the life jacket on Dawki and Umiam boats, and swim only where locals do.

• Network and cash. Jio and Airtel work in Shillong and Sohra, then fade. ATMs thin out past Sohra. Download offline maps and carry enough cash for two days.

• Solo and women travellers. Matrilineal Khasi society makes the state feel easy-going for women. The usual rules apply: share your live location, use a known driver for night arrivals and register at your stay, which is now compulsory anyway.

• Kids and parents. Meghalaya suits elderly parents and children well, since the viewpoints, Mawsmai Cave and the Dawki boats are all gentle. Skip Nongriat with very young children or anyone with knee trouble. Our Meghalaya family planners route around the long steps.

Travel responsibly. Mawlynnong earned its "cleanest village in Asia" title by banning plastic and sweeping daily, so carry your rubbish out. In Mawphlang and other sacred groves, nothing may be taken out, not even a fallen leaf. Ask before photographing people, pay village entry fees without haggling, and keep music down on the root-bridge trail. Travelling with a pet? Check your hotel's rules before you book, as many homestays do not take animals.

Every distance in this Meghalaya tourism guide was checked by the TravelTriangle editorial team against road-routing data from Police Bazar, and the entry rules against state and district orders, in November 2026.

Plan the trip with a local expert

If you would rather not stitch together cabs, homestays and the Nongriat guide yourself, a TravelTriangle local agent can build the route above around your dates and change any day of it before you pay. Compare up to three quotes, then book the one that fits. Browse all Meghalaya tour packages for ready-made routes by length.

Edited by TravelTriangle

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      Meghalaya Travel FAQs

      Do Indian tourists need an Inner Line Permit for Meghalaya?

      No. Indian citizens do not need an Inner Line Permit to visit Meghalaya, and foreign nationals need no Protected or Restricted Area Permit, only a passport and valid visa. What changed in June 2025 is registration: every hotel, homestay and resort must register its guests at check-in, so carry a government photo ID for each adult. A wider "virtual ILP" registration at entry was proposed in July 2026 but is not in force. Check meghalayatourism.in before you travel

      What is the best time to visit Meghalaya?

      The best time to visit Meghalaya is October to April. October and November have full waterfalls under clearing skies. December to February is cold, about 6 to 15°C in Shillong in January, with the clearest water at Dawki and dry root-bridge trails. March is quiet and pleasant. June to September is heavy monsoon: the falls are at their biggest, but fog, leeches and landslides slow everything down and Dawki boating often pauses

      How many days are enough for Meghalaya?

      Five days is enough for a first trip. That covers Shillong, a Mawlynnong and Dawki day, a night in Sohra for the waterfalls and caves, and the Nongriat root-bridge trek, with Guwahati at both ends. Three days covers only Shillong and Sohra. Seven days lets you add Laitlum, Mawphlang, Mawsynram and a riverside night at Shnongpdeng. The Garo Hills need two or three extra days on their own

      How far is Shillong from Guwahati, and how do I get there?

      Shillong is about 100 km from Guwahati by road: 96 km from Guwahati railway station and 117 km from the airport. The drive takes 2.5 to 3.5 hours on the four-lane highway past Umiam Lake. You can hire a private cab (about Rs 2,500 to Rs 3,500 one way), take a shared Sumo from Paltan Bazar, or ride an MTC bus, the cheapest option

      Which is the nearest airport and railway station to Meghalaya?

      For most trips, the nearest useful airport is Guwahati's Lokpriya Gopinath Bordoloi airport, 117 km from Shillong. Shillong's own airport at Umroi is 30 km from the city but has only limited regional flights. Meghalaya's only railway station is Mendipathar in North Garo Hills, opened in 2014, which does not help for Shillong or Sohra. Guwahati station, 96 km away, is the practical railhead

      Is a guide mandatory for treks in Meghalaya?

      Yes, in East Khasi Hills. A June 2025 district order made registered local guides compulsory for treks and outdoor activities in the district, which covers Sohra and the Nongriat Double Decker Root Bridge. Hire one at Tyrna village, where the steps begin, or ask your homestay to arrange one the evening before. Agree the fee before you set off, and pay in cash

      Can tourists self-drive a rented car in Meghalaya?

      Not from private owners. Under the rental policy the state cabinet cleared in August 2025, anyone renting out cars or scooters must register with the Transport Department, and unregistered rentals face fines and vehicle seizure. In practice tourists hire a Meghalaya-registered cab with a driver, which also helps on landslide-prone roads. App cabs are patchy inside Shillong and do not cover the highway routes

      Is it worth visiting Meghalaya in the monsoon?

      Yes, if waterfalls are the point and you can be flexible. Sohra and Mawsynram get more than 11,000 mm of rain a year, so Nohkalikai and the Seven Sisters Falls are at full force from July to September, the hills turn deep green and stays are cheaper. Expect fog that hides views, leeches on trails, landslide delays and paused Dawki boating. Skip the Nongriat trek in heavy rain

      Is Meghalaya safe for solo and women travellers?

      Yes. Meghalaya is safe and relaxed for most visitors, and its matrilineal Khasi society makes it feel especially easy for women travelling alone. Take normal care: use a known driver for night arrivals, share your live location and keep emergency number 112 handy. The bigger risks are natural, so avoid driving after dark in the monsoon and always hire the compulsory guide for treks in East Khasi Hills

      What should I pack for Meghalaya?

      Pack layers whatever the month. Shillong drops to 4°C on winter nights and can be cool even in summer evenings. Bring a rain jacket or umbrella all year, shoes with good grip for wet steps, a spare pair of socks, leech socks or salt in the monsoon, a power bank, offline maps, a government photo ID for hotel registration, and enough cash for village fees and the Dawki boat

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