Maulik's 8 days trip to Bhutan
6 years agoI started searching for my Bhutan trip in July and travel triangle helped me get in touch with Bhutan INC. My experience with Bhutan INC was amazing. I was in touch with Miss Khina Maya who was available 24X7! I could contact her through whatsapp and she would always respond to my queries. The booking process was as per my needs - four installments.
Coming to the trip -
Both my wife and I were really excited as it was our first anniversary on December 3. I made a mistake by booking my flight from Mumbai to Siliguri for December 1. While you can enter Bhutan on any day, you can cross Phuentsholing (the border town) only on weekdays. That meant I had to stay back either in Siliguri or Phuentsholing on Saturday and Sunday. I chose to stay at CHAS Rajdarbar Hotel in Siliguri on Saturday and took an early morning cab to Phuentsholing on Sunday. Bhutan INC took care of all my travel from India to Bhutan and within Bhutan. Bhutan INC also helped in booking hotels of my choice - 3 star or 4 star on a budget.
Note: If you are ever in Siliguri, do visit the Mahabir Bhojnalaya for it's epic vegeterian food. Hongkong market is just across the road if you want to purchase some cheap Chinese goods (only for non-Mumbaikars as we get everything here).
December 2 - First day in Bhutan
A WagonR picked us up from Siliguri and drove us to the border town Phuentsholing. India and Bhutan are separated by a very simple gate and you can immediately recognize the difference - clean roads devoid of any filth. The less said about the Indian border town Jaigaon, the better. We stayed at Hotel Damchen - best place to stay if you want to see the centre of Phuentsholing. It is right opposite Zangto Pelri Lakhang - a monastery and a park. There is a crocodile breeding centre not far away but you can skip it.
Places to eat: Kizom Cafe and Pizzeria (the best, very expensive), Asian Kitchen (cheap beer, good food), Zen Restaurant, Tshering Phuensum Hotel (cheap beer and cocktails, purple lighting)
December 3 - Drive from Phuentsholing to Thimphu
This was the day we met our driver and guide - KINLEY! His car, a blue colored Hyundai Tucson, was BEAUTIFUL!!
We reached the immigration office at 9 am. However, there was a huge line (only Indians) and we had to fill a form (which we should have done the previous day but sadly, we were not informed). We completed the form and stood in the line. It underwent a first-level verification and then we went on the first floor. There were around 20 immigration counters, all full! Also, agents are a big pain as they will get 10-20 passports at one go and the line wont move at all. We were done at around 10.30 am and Kinley was waiting for us downstairs. Phuentsholing to Thimphu is around 5 hours drive and we have to get down at the checkpost once for verification and stamping. The drive is as picturesque as it can be. Do stop at Gedu - you will either find fog moving upwards or you will find snow. We stopped at a local restaurant on the way for lunch. That's where we tasted Kewa Datshi (Potato with Cheese) and Ema Datshi (Chilli with Cheese) for the first time! Ema Datshi is Bhutan's national dish and it lives up to its name. It was AWESOME! We reached Thimphu at 4 pm and checked into Hotel Galingkha. If you are ever in Thimphu and want to stay in a 5-star type hotel on a budget, Galingkha is the one for you. Right in the middle of the town, it is surrounded by all night-life must-visit places of Thimphu. Do not, I repeat Do not, stay near the highway. You will be screwed! There is not much to talk about the local transport.
Places to visit: Clock Tower Square - there is a maggi place here. You will also find a host of other restaurants and bars, Centenary and Coronation Park - Do visit Mojo Park on Wednesday for a live gig and Cloud 9 cafe and bar for its amazing ambience!
Other places: Bhutan Kitchen, Ambient Cafe (closes at 8.30 pm)
December 4 - Thimphu Sightseeing
Memorial Chorten (entry is 300 Rs. per head): Just a tick-mark on places to visit, nothing out of the world. Was built in the memory of the third king.
Buddha view point: 169 ft bronze statue of the Buddha
Textile museum and craft bazaar (total entry is 150 Rs. per head): In my opinion, can be skipped
Takin Reserve (entry is 300 Rs. per head): One, it's huge. Two, there are other animals. Three, we didn't find a TAKIN! (Takin is the national animal and Ema Datshi is the national dish)
We tried Hoentae - a Bhutanese buckwheat momo - Tastes amazing!
Note: You always have to talk about the King respectfully - people love him and his family and you should love them too!
December 5 - Drive from Thimphu to Punakha
We started at 9.30 am for a 3 hour drive through Punakha through the Dochu La Pass - the most famous pass in Bhutan. There are 108 chortens (buddhist structures) and the temperature is around 0-5 degrees Celsius in December. From here, you can see the mighty Himalayas and if you are lucky, the Kanchenjunga! Our next stop was the Chimi Lakhang (temple of fertility). We had chosen the hike option so Kinley left us near a field which we had to cross to reach the temple. It was a 30 minute hike. The ever gracious Kinley took us to a riverside hotel and arranged a seat for us in the balcony. The view was breathtaking - emerald clear waters, white sand, huge mountains. We finally checked in at our hotel - Damchen resort. The room was again 5-star like and the view was amazing. The river was so close to our balcony that we could almost feel it. It was so silent that you could hear the river flowing through the beautiful town. There was not much to do in Punakha that day. However, we went around the market and came back to our hotel for dinner.
Day 6 - Drive from Punakha to Paro
Our first stop was the mighty Punakha Dzong. It is the administrative centre that also houses a monastery. The head monk lives here during the winters as Punakha is a valley town and is slightly warmer than Thimphu during winters. Entry for the Dzong is 300 Rs. per head. Our next stop was the longest suspension bridge. It is long, and it is very high! You can click beautiful pictures of the valley and the river from the bridge. There is another monastery on the way to Paro that you may choose to skip. We arrived at Dewachen resort during lunch time. Now, the resort is nestled on a hill and is around 4 km away from the city centre. You can see planes land at Paro from your room. At night, you can see a sky full of stars. The view is breathtaking. You feel as if you are standing on top of a cliff! The room was huge and the feeling was again like a 5-star. This hotel is frequented by foreigners so expect top quality service and food. Their restaurant was amazing.
Places to visit in Paro: You can visit the Paro market for handicrafts. Eat at Mountain Cafe, Champaca Cafe (a personal favorite), Brioche Cafe, and Sonam Trophel. Paro is a sleepy town so dont expect any nightlife here. Thimphu is the place for nightlife.
Day 7: Tigers Nest Hike
It is a 5-hour hike. 2.5 hours each way. This is because the climb ends and the reverse begins with a set of harrowing steps. Winter or summer, these steps will suck the life out of you! While the maximum journey is on an inclined path, the last leg and the initial part of the return leg would have you climb up and down steps. After you reach the monastery, you have to do a registration. So carry your permits. You will have to remove your cap / anything covering your head. You will have to submit your bags and your mobile phones at the locker counter. No photos allowed inside. It is one of their most sacred places. You can read about the hike online and trust me, it is all true. Just a note: Avoid if you are too old or if you avoid taking stairs. The steps / stairs are the most harrowing part of the journey that can break a weak heart!
Day 8: Drive from Paro to Phuentsholing
This is where we had our last journey with Kinley. He had become our family. Just to tell you a bit more about Kinley: He has been to India and even studied at LPU, Jalandhar! He has done his masters in tourism and hotel management. You cant and shouldnt treat them as drivers. Treat them like your family! National museum was shut because of renovation so we could not visit it. We arrived at Phuentsholing at noon. Hotel Royal Orchid overlooks Phuentsholing's football stadium and we could watch a live match between two schools! Royal Orchid is a 10 min walk from the centre of the town. But the location is great. A note: While coming back, you will stop at a checkpost again for 'Exit' stamp.
Must visit: Mr. Sharma's army dhaba. Indian Army runs this dhaba on the highway. Do try their masala maggi and samosa! Indian army has a lot of presence in Bhutan due to infrastructure projects.
Day 9: Drive from Phuentsholing to Bagdogra Airport
Bhutan INC had included this in the cost as well.
A few notes:
1. Alcohol is available everywhere in Bhutan but Tuesday is a weekly dry day everywhere
2. Beers to try: Red Panda (unfiltered wheat beer), Druk beer (premium quality), Thunder 15000 (super strong). Beers are dirt cheap
3. Popular whiskeys: K5 whiskey (most expensive), Misty Peak, Bhutan Grain Whiskey
4. Popular rums: XXX Rum at Rs. 100 for 750 ml!
5. Do try their peach wine - Zumzin
6. Popular vodkas: Raven
7. All types of alcohol are prepared using Himalayan spring waters
8. Thimphu has no traffic signals - please spare some time and observe their traffic police. The way they control their traffic is like a choreographed dance performance. Galingkha had a great view of Thimphu's main junction.
9. While temperatures are extremely low in December, the sun can burn your skin
10. Phuentsholing average temperatures in December - +25/+17
11. Thimphu average temperatures in December - +16/-2.1
12. Punakha average temperatures in December - +19/+2.5
13. Paro average temperatures in December - +15/0
14. Do not opt for the hot stone bath after Tigers Nest hike - it's expensive. Try hot water in your bathtub instead!
15. Avoid Taktsang cafeteria after Tigers Nest - It is expensive. Plus, there are better options in Paro town that is 25 mins away.
16. ALWAYS RESPECT THE ROYALTY!
17. ALWAYS FOLLOW THE ZEBRA CROSSING WHEREVER YOU GO!
18. DO NOT LITTER!
19. ALWAYS BARGAIN!
20. Try their red rice and buckwheat momos
21. Dont worry about your safety; Bhutan is safe at night
22. Always be courteous
23. Everyone speaks and/or understands Hindi
24. Everyone accepts all denominations of Indian currency
25. If you are a vegetarian, carry some cup noodles
26. Please write to me in case you need Kinley's contact. He can help you plan the trip as well!